Lone & Lars
Trip: November 2007
Tour: Botswana - Khutse
Botswana / Zimbabwe - organised tour to Okavango Delta/Chobe National Park/Victoria Falls
South Africa/Sydafrika - Garden Route + Cape Town
To visit Marianne and Derek two conditions have to be met ... 1) Bring some Danish food and LOTS of liquorice. 2) Write about the trip afterwards. Now I will meet condition number two. Hopefully this can be of inspiration to others who would like to plan a trip to Botswana.
Der var to betingelser for at komme og besøge Marianne og Derek….1) Medbringe danske madvarer og MASSER af lakrids. 2) Skive en rejse beretning efter turen. Så nu vil jeg opfylde betingelse nummer to. Den kan forhåbentlig være til inspiration for andre, som skulle have lyst til at planlægge en rejse til Botswana.
Practical stuff / Praktiske ting
First a few practical things before you leave. The passport must be valid for 6 months after leaving Botswana and there are no visa requirements for Botswana and South Africa. A visa is, however, required to enter Zimbabwe but this can be bought at the border (US $ 30).
Lige et par praktiske ting før afrejse. Passet skal være gyldigt 6 måneder efter udrejse fra Botswana og der kræves ikke visum til Botswana og Sydafrika. Derimod skal man have et for at komme ind i Zimbabwe, men man køber det ved grænseovergangen(US $ 30).
We chose to get vaccinations at Skejby hospital. The number for their vaccination department is 89 49 83 18. If you enter South Africa from another African country you may experience that they will require that you have a Yellow Fever vaccination - or so we have heard. This was not mentioned in the reference book they use at the hospital and we were not asked for such vaccination at the border.
Vi valgt at få vaccinationer på Skejby sygehus. Deres vaccinations afdeling har tlf. 89 49 83 18. Hvis man rejser ind i Sydafrika fra et andet afrikansk land, kan man risikere, at de forlanger at man har en vaccination for Gul feber, har vi hørt. Det står ikke i den bog, de slår op i på sygehuset, for at se hvad der kræves af vaccinationer. Vi oplevede nu heller ikke at blive spurgt.
We chose to travel in the spring as we had been told that the Garden Route in South Africa is most beautiful this time of the year. When we were in the northern parts of Botswana we often talked about that it was good we didn't travel in the summer period - it would have been too warm. In those parts we had 35-40 degrees during mid day.
Vi valgte at tage derned om foråret [dvs. afrikanske forår], fordi vi lod os fortælle, at Garden Route i Sydafrika, ville være flottest på dette tidspunkt. Vi snakkede flere gange om, da vi var i det nordlige Bots, at det var godt, at vi ikke rejste i deres sommerperiode for, så ville det have været alt for varmt. Deroppe havde vi 35-40 grader midt på dagen.
We booked our flight ticket at Jydsk travel agency. We chose a ticket where we flew to Johannesburg and from there to Gaborone. Then we had a ticket from Johannesburg to Port Elizabeth and when we were going home we flew out of Cape Town. We used South African Airways as they give you cheaper flights between African cities if you also use them for the route between Europe and Africa. All in all the tickets were DKK 7000 + DKK 1800 in taxes and duties per person. We also booked a car to rent through Jydsk travel agency before we left. We had a Toyota Corolla for 6 days which costed us DKK 2000.
Vi havde booket vores flybillet hos Jydsk rejsebureau. Vi havde valgt en billet, hvor vi fløj til Johannesburg og derefter videre til Gaborone. Derudover havde vi en flybillet, fra Johannesburg til Port Elizabeth. Da vi skulle hjem, fløj vi ud af Cape Town. Vi fløj med South African Airways, fordi flyver man til Afrika med dem, er flyvningerne mellem afrikanske byer billigere. I alt lød regningen på 7000 kr. + 1800 kr. i skatter og afgifter pr. pers. for alle flyvninger. Vi havde også valgt, at leje en bil hjemmefra hos Jydsk rejsebureau. Vi havde en Toyota Corolla i 6 dage, og det kostede 2000 kr. for den luksus.
Furthermore, we booked beforehand a 12 day trip around Botswana at Brandstrup Travels. This trip is organised by an African agency called Livingstone Trails. We chose their camping tour but it is possible to upgrade this trip so that you sleep in small chalets rather than tents. The tour costed DKK 8600 per person for 12 days and including most meals. The tours are for smaller groups of people - we were five persons travelling in a minibuss where there is room for up to 12 persons.
Vi havde også hjemmefra booket en 12 dagstur rundt i Bots. ved Brandstrup Travels. Det er en tur, som laves af et afrikansk selskab, der hedder Livingstone Trails. Vi havde valgt deres campingtur, men denne tur kan opgraderes, så man i stedet overnatter i små hytter, i stedet for telt. Turen for de 12 dage, og med de fleste måltider inkl. kostede 8600 kr. Dette turselskab laver ture for mindre selskaber. Vi var 5 personer af sted. De kører rundt i små minibusser med plads til op til 12 personer.
The Tour / Selve turen
Well, that was a few practical things. Now to the actual trip...
Nå, men det var nogle af de mere praktiske ting omkring turen. Nu til selve turen….
When we arrived in Gaborone, after about 24 hours travel, we were picked up at the airport by Marianne. The first we saw when we left the airport building was some monkeys running around ... wild. That was an appetiser for what was waiting for us the coming month.
Da vi ankom til Gaborone, efter et døgn under vejs, blev vi hentet i lufthavnen af Marianne. Det første vi så, da vi kom ud af lufthavnen var aber, der rendte rundt...vildt, det var en appetitvækker på, hvad der ventede os den næste måned.
We had a quiet evening and went to bed early - after the car had been packed and all was ready. The next morning we drove to Khutse national park with Marianne and Derek. It was a great experience just driving there, seeing donkeys, cows and goats eating on the side of the roads and crossing the roads as they please. Khutse is part of the central Kalahari and it was really exciting to see this part of the country. We camped in the park and for the next three days we were surrounded by savannah and animals. We drove around in their four wheel drive looking for animals. I so hoped to see giraffes but we were not so lucky on this trip. Nevertheless, we saw lots of different types of boks and birds. Besides, it was great to experience a landscape so different from what we are used to and it was nice and warm!! [For more about Khutse see page 4. About / om Botswana ]
Vi tog en stille aften og gik tidligt i seng - efter bilen var pakket og klar. Næste morgen tog vi til Khutse national park med Marianne og Derek. Det var en kæmpe oplevelse alene at køre derop, hvor æsler, køer og geder græsser i vejkanten og krydsede vejen på må og få. Khutse ligger nær midten af Bots. [en del af Kalahari ørkenen] og det var rigtig spændende, at se denne del af landet. Vi slog lejr i nationalparken, og de næste 3 dage befandt vi os ude i naturen, omgivet af savanne og dyr. Vi lå og kørte rundt i deres 4 hjulstrækker, og kiggede efter dyr. Jeg håbede inderligt, at komme til at se en giraf, men det fik vi nu ikke at se på denne tur. Til gengæld fik vi set en masse hjorte arter og fugle. Desuden bare det at befinde sig i et landskab, som er så anderledes end det vi er vant til, var helt forrygende - og der var dejlig varmt!! [for mere om Khutse se side 4. About / om Botswana ]
Back in Gaborone we saw a bit of the town before Marianne drove us to Johannesburg in South Africa.
Tilbage i Gaborone fik vi set lidt af byen. inden Marianne kørte os til Johannesburg i Sydafrika.
After a night of rest we were up early and on the road in the minibus for a 12 day camping tour. The border official smiled a little as we were once again crossing the border to Botswana - having just been across the day before. Our 12 day booked safari tour had started. This trip was going to take us to the Okavango Delta, Chobe National Park and the Victoria Falls in Zimbawe.
Efter en overnatning skulle vi tidligt op og af sted, med en minibus på 12 dags campingturen. Tolderen trak lidt på smilebåndet, da vi atter krydsede grænsen til Bots., for vi havde jo lige krydset den, den modsatte vej dagen før. Vores 12 dags safari tur var startet. Denne tur skulle bla. tage os til Okavango deltaet, Chobe national park og Victoria Falls i Zimbabwe.
But off we went up Botswana and the first day we drove about 1000 km. It was a very long day and when we arrived to Nata it was in total darkness and in rain and thunder - here you go, ahead you go and put up your tent! And then their tent which we had never put up before. Anyway, we managed and thereafter got dinner and went to bed.
Men af sted gik det op i Bots. og den første dag kørte vi 1000 km. Det var en meget lang dag, og vi ankom til Nata i total mørke, og et forfærdelig uvejr - og værsgo at sætte telt op, og oveni købet deres telt, som vi jo aldrig havde sat op før. Men vi fik det sat op, derefter noget aftensmad og i seng.
The following day we drove to Maun where we camped for the night. Thereafter we went into the Okavango Delta in mokoros (kind of primitive canoes) where we camped. It was a fantastic experience, sitting there in the mokoros and going through the tall grass in the water. The grass was like a big green carpet and then here and there we could see some water filled with water lillies. It was really a great experience. When we had set up camped we just rested in the shade of a big tree - it was so warm there in the northern parts of Botswana.
Dagen efter kørte vi til Maun og slog lejr for natten. Derefter gik det mod Okavango deltaet. Vi sejlede i mokoroer (kanolignende), ind i deltaet til vores lejrplads. Det var en helt fantastisk oplevelse, at sidde i mokoroen, og se den skyde gennem sivene i vandet. Sivene var som et kæmpe grønt tæppe, men nogle steder kunne man se, en lille plet af vand, hvor der var fyldt med åkander. Det var fantastisk at opleve. Vi fik slået lejr og befandt os midt på dagen i skyggen af et træ, der var bare så varmt, oppe i det nordlige Bots.
One of guys that had sailed the mokoros was also our guide when we went into the Delta looking for animals. It was exciting and also somewhat thriling being such a small person compared to an elephant.... But a real adventure also as we were pretty close to elephants and zebras. We also saw plenty of other animals, though not as close. We walked between the palms and elephant poo (which looked like piles of hay) and tried to spot the animals.
En af de mænd, som havde sejlet mokoroen var vores guide, når vi gik ud i deltaet, og så efter dyr. Det var spændende og lidt nervepirrende, at være så lille et menneske i forhold til en elefant… Men spændende, fordi det lykkedes os, at komme forholdsvis tæt på elefanter og zebraer. Vi så også flere andre dyr, men dem kom vi ikke så tæt på. Vi gik rundt mellem palmer, elefantlort (som ligner klumper af hø), og forsøgte at spotte dyr.

One afternoon we went in the mokoros through the most beautiful place with water lillies and hippos. We kept a bit of distance as hippos are quite nervous animals and extremly dangerous. One morning when we woke up we could not go to the toilet as an elephant kept it occupied. Our toilet was just a whole in the ground behind our camp so the elephant could not know that we used this place - it apparently thought the leaves were particularly tasty in that area that day. To end our tour of the Okavango we chose to take a scenic flight over the Delta (US $ 60) and it was absolutely amazing to see it all from above. We saw lots of animals as we flew and to see the landscape from above was a perfect way to end our days in the Delta.
En eftermiddag sejlede vi ud til det smukkeste sted, med åkander og flodheste. Vi holdt os lidt på afstand, da de er meget nervøse dyr og derfor ekstremt farlige. En morgen da vi vågnede, kunne vi ikke komme på toilet, fordi en elefant havde indtaget det. Nu var vores toilet også bare et hul gravet i jorden, bag ved vores lejr, så elefanten kunne jo ikke vide, at vi brugte denne plads - og den syntes åbenbart, at grenene smagt specielt lækre, der den dag. Som afslutning på turen i Okavango, valgt vi at tage en flyvning over deltaet (US $ 60), og det var helt fantastisk, at komme op og se, det hele ovenfra. Vi så en masse dyr, mens vi fløj, og at se landskabet ovenfra, var et perfekt punktum på nogle gode dage i deltaet.
Afte the Okavango the trip went to the Chobe National Park. This was yet another fantastic experience. We were picked up from our camp in an open jeep and then we went into the Chobe. I had been told by several people that there would be so many elephants that I would get tired of them. And there were a lot of elephants, but I never got tired of looking at them. We also saw lots of other animals - crocodiles, lions, giraffes, wathogs, and several types of boks, just to mention a few.
Efter Okavango, gik turen videre til Chobe national park. Det var endnu en fantastisk oplevelse. Vi blev hentet i vores lejr, af en åben jeep, og kørte af sted til Chobe. Jeg var blevet fortalt af flere, at der var så mange elefanter, at jeg ville blive træt af at kigge på dem. Der var rigtig mange elefanter, men jeg blev nu ikke træt af at se på dem. Vi så også en masse andre dyr, krokodiller, løver, giraffer, vortesvin og flere hjorte arter, bare for at nævne nogle af de dyr vi så.
We saw two female lions catching a prey which is something we you do not see very often, we were told. Often you only arrive when the lions have caught the animal as it all happens so fast. But we saw it and what a team work between the two lions. Quite harsh to watch, but that's nature!!
Vi så to hun løver nedlægge et bytte, det er ofte ikke noget man ser, har vi fået fortalt. Som oftest kommer man først, når byttet er nedlagt, fordi det går så stærkt, men vi så det, og sikke et teamwork de to løver lagde for dagen. Barsk at se på, men det er jo engang naturen!!
After Chobe we went to the Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. It was sad to see how poor people were there. We could not walk on the street without being asked to buy something or swap an old t-shirt or pen. In the shops there were barely anything to buy and what was there hardly anyone could afford.
We were recommended by our guide to change to Zim $ when we were there. We did this but we do not think it was much of an advantage. To the contrary it was much easier to use US $. The inflation is incredible high and the people there only have Zim $ and the smallest note is 100 000 - rather a lot of zeros to calculate with.
It was not the best time of the year to see the Vic Falls if you want to see it with lots of water. But it was still beautiful and there is a nice walk along the waterfalls.
Efter Chobe tog vi til Victoria falls, i Zimbabwe. Det var forfærdelig, at se hvor fattige folk var der. Vi kunne ikke gå på gaden, uden at blive bedt om at købe det ene eller det andre - eller bytte med en gammel T-shirts eller en kuglepen. I dagligvarer butikkerne var der næsten ingenting at købe, og det der var, havde de fleste ikke råd til at købe.
Vi blev anbefalet af vores guide at veksle til zim $ deroppe. Det gjorde vi, men det er ikke vores oplevelse, at det var en fordel. Derimod er det meget nemmere at bruge US$ og den hårde valuta, er meget mere velanset. Inflationen er så høj, at de kun har sedler i zim $ og den mindste er på 100.000, og det er frygtelig mange nuller at regne med.
Det var ikke den optimale tid at se Victoria falls på, hvis man vil se det når der løber rigtig meget vand gennem. Men det vi så var flot, og det var en dejlig gåtur langs vandfaldene.
Vic Falls is a real tourist destination with lots of different activities such as white water rafting, elephant riding etc. As part of our tour we also sailed on the Zambezi river on the Zambian side. It was a great experience where we once again saw elephants and hippos.
After the days at the Falls we went back to Johannesburg - with a night stop on the way. Here we said goodbye to the group and guide.
Vic falls er meget lagt an på turister med mange forskellige aktiviteter, f.eks. white water rafting, elefantridning mm. Som en del af turen, var vi også ude at sejle på Zambezi floden på Zambia siden. Det var en spændende oplevelse, hvor vi atter så elefanter og flodheste.
Efter dagene i Vic falls gik turen, med en overnatning, tilbage til Johannesburg. Her sagde vi farvel til resten af gruppen og guiden.
The following day we took the plane to Port Elizabeth. Here the car we had pre-booked was ready and waiting at the airport and then we went on our way along the Garden Route towards Cape Town. The trip is about 750 km but we chose at one point to go inland through a number of mountain passes. It was an amazing trip where we could decide on our own what we wanted to see. Several travel agencies offer this trip as 'drive-it-yourself' for five days and four nights. We had a week to do more or less the same route and we would have liked to have more time. There were several places and town on the route we would have liked to explore more, but there was not enough time for that.
But we had time to see a lot of coast line with white beaches and amazingly blue water, and we did some hiking in forest and mountains.
Dagen efter tog vi flyet til Port Elizabeth. Her stod vores bil klar i lufthavnen, og turen gik ad Garden Route mod Cape Town. Turen direkte er ca. 750 km., men vi valgte på et tidspunkt, at kører op i landet gennem nogle bjergpas. Det var en helt forrygende tur, hvor vi selv kunne bestemme, hvad vi ville se på vejen. Flere rejsebureauer udbyder denne tur, som ” kør selv ” på 5 dage - 4 nætter. Vi havde en uge, til næsten den samme tur, og vi syntes, at det ville have været dejligt, at have haft lidt mere tid. Der var flere steder og byer på turen, vi gerne ville have udforsket nærmere, men tiden tillod det ikke.
Men vi fik tid til at se en masse kystlinie med hvide sandstrande og turkis blåt vand, bjerge og vi vandrede i skove og bjerge.
We had made somewhat of a plan of what we wanted to see on the route, but along the way we talked to different people and got new ideas and advice on what to do and see.
We had decided beforehand only to book our night in Johannesburg and in Cape Town. For the rest of our route we had not booked which made our travel plan very flexible. We did not experience that any places were booked, but then again, we did not travel in the high season. We used the little guide book "Coast to Coast" where there are many suggestions of places to stay along the route.
We felt that we covered Botswana well in three weeks where we did a lot of driving. But it would have been great with more than a week to do the Garden Route. We had two days in Cape Town where we did the tourist things. We took the sight seeing bus around town and also of course went up the Table Mountain.
Vi havde hjemmefra lidt en plan om, hvad vi ville se på turen, men undervejs på rejsen snakkede vi med forskellige mennesker og fik nye ideer og gode råd, til hvor vi skulle gøre holdt.
Vi havde valgt, kun at booke natten i Johannesburg, efter 12 dagsuturen, og de 2 nætter i Cape Town hjemmefra. Det, at vi bare kunne dumpe ind på overnatningssteder gjorde, at vores rejseplan var fleksibel. Vi oplevede ikke nogen steder, hvor alt var optaget, men det var jo heller ikke i højsæsonen vi rejst. Vi brugte den lille ”coast to coast”, med overnatningssteder, til at finde ud af, hvor vi skulle tage hen.
Vi har en meget god fornemmelse af, at have set Bots. godt efter 3 uger, hvor vi har kørt meget rundt. Men det ville have været dejligt, med mere end en uge til at kører Garden Route turen. Vi havde 2 dage i Cape Town, så der tog vi den meget turistede form for storbyferie. Vi tog en sight seeing bus rundt i byen og selvfølgelig var vi oppe og se Taffel bjerget.
It was an amazing holiday with lots of experiences. If you need any more information you are welcome to contact me.
Det har været en helt forrygende ferie med masser af oplevelser. Skulle nogen få lyst til at få uddybende informationer, er I velkommen til at kontakte mig.
Lone
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